The Chouara Tanneries: What to Know Before You Visit

The tanneries have been operating in roughly the same way for centuries, and visiting them is memorable, though not always in the way the postcard photos suggest.

Does it really smell that bad?

Yes, honestly — the tanning process uses substances including lime, pigeon droppings, and various dyes in open-air stone vats, and the smell is strong, especially on a hot day. Most rooftop viewpoints hand out sprigs of mint to hold under your nose, which is a genuine help rather than just a tourist gimmick. It's not unbearable for most people, more of a memorable curiosity than a dealbreaker, but if you're particularly sensitive to strong smells, it's worth knowing in advance rather than being caught off guard mid-visit.

Is paying for the rooftop view worth it?

Most of the best views of the tanning vats come from surrounding leather shops' rooftop terraces, and while there's often no separate ticket as such, there's a clear expectation that you'll browse or buy something in the shop below in exchange for access. Treat it as informal: the view itself is genuinely worth seeing once, and buying even a small item is a reasonable way to acknowledge the access rather than treating it as purely free. Several shops offer this, so if one feels too pushy about a purchase, it's fine to try another nearby.

Is the leather actually good quality?

The tanneries produce genuine, traditionally processed leather, and quality varies by shop and specific item rather than being uniform. Well-made jackets, bags, and slippers are available, but so are lower-quality pieces aimed at quick tourist sales, so it's worth examining stitching, smell, since an overly strong chemical odor can indicate synthetic treatment or shortcuts, and flexibility of the leather before buying. Prices are negotiable, as in the souks generally. If leather quality matters to you, taking time to compare a few shops rather than buying at the first rooftop you're shown tends to produce a better result.

Is it ethical to visit?

This is a fair question, and views differ. The tanneries are a real, working industry providing livelihoods to tannery workers and leather shop owners, not a staged display for tourists, and the process itself predates tourism by centuries. Some travelers have concerns about the working conditions visible from the rooftops, which are genuinely tough — workers stand in the dye and lime vats for extended periods. Visiting respectfully, without demanding photos of individual workers without permission, and supporting the shops with a fair purchase if you're able to, is a reasonable way to approach it if the ethics weigh on you.

Planning where to start? See tours from Fes.

Related reading: Fes el-Bali: A First-Timer's Guide to the World's Largest Car-Free Urban Area, Moroccan Etiquette: Greetings, Gestures, and Everyday Customs to Know.

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Frequently asked questions

Does the Chouara Tannery really smell as bad as people say?

Yes, it's a genuinely strong smell — most viewpoints offer mint sprigs to help, which does make a real difference.

Do I have to pay to see the tanneries?

There's usually no formal ticket, but rooftop access through a leather shop comes with an expectation you'll browse or buy something.

Is the leather from the tanneries good quality?

It varies by shop and item — genuine, well-made pieces exist alongside lower-quality tourist-aimed goods, so it's worth comparing before buying.

Is it ethical to visit the tanneries as a tourist?

It's a real working industry, not a tourist performance, though the visible working conditions raise fair questions some travelers weigh for themselves.

How long does a tannery visit take?

Usually 20-30 minutes is enough to see the vats from a rooftop and browse a shop, unless you're seriously shopping for leather goods.

Is the tannery worth visiting if I'm not buying leather?

Yes — the visual of the vats and the dyeing process is striking and worth seeing even if you have no intention of shopping.